tm9-801.com

Since I've been reading up on G506 rear axle (banjo type) I of course came across several ramblings made by the head poster of blather:

Making the ASININE statements:

Re: G-506 Chev. rear axle outer lock nut w/seal.

Postby Ben Dover » Wed Jul 18, 2012 2:34 am
The Metal Gasket is a must, the problem was motion which ruined the threads in the hubs.

And


Re: G-506 Chev. rear axle outer lock nut w/seal.

Postby Ben Dover » Tue Jul 24, 2012 2:13 am
The Factory Bolts do not have a precision fit shank, the Terne Plate Gasket is the medium that helps prevent motion, many do it your self owners choose to juse a paper or or silicone which does not contribute sufficient friction. This has been an age old problem since the trucks were first released to the civilian market 66+ years ago. Elongated holes and worn threads are the norm for this abuse. It is a chronic G-506/G-508 Problem. Best to install a fresh terneplate gasket each time.
NOTE:
You will notice reference to this metal gasket being aluminum in the TM9 and 10 Repair Manuals. The term Terneplate does come up somewhere in the technical information. on the Banjo Axle.

More BS from the head BS'er


Re: CCKW open cab on G-506

Postby Ben Dover » Fri Apr 20, 2012 7:54 pm
Bolts for rear Banjo Axle Flanges on Chev 4X4 and CCKW are 7/16" X 1-3/8" NC and OEM have a special shoulder. They must be installed using OEM Terneplate Gaskets, use of paper or Silicone will allow them to slip and enlarge the bolt threads in the hub. This has been a problem forever with trucks repaired without using the proper rear axle gaskets.

It seems that Bend Me Over thinks that the metal tern plated gasket is there to somehow stop the axle from 'slipping' around the hub flange and somehow preventing the elongation of the hub bolt holes.

REALLY?

A thin coating of tin/lead is going to stop the rotational forces of the axle from putting a tangential force on the axle bolts and stop the bolt holes from elongating?

REALLY?

So what is Terne plating?

"Terne is an alloy coating that was historically made of lead and tin used to cover steel, in the ratio of 20% tin and 80% lead. Currently, lead has been replaced with the metal zinc and is used in the ratio of 50% tin and 50% zinc. This alloy has a low melting point approximately 360 degrees Fahrenheit."

Lead is a very, very, very soft metal. Anything that is 80% lead will smear like warm butter. What 'friction' is it supposed to generate?

As stated the Terne plate is nothing more than an ANTI-CORROSION coating. Its not a miracle friction material.

So why are some hub bolt holes so torn up? Misuse (overloading truck) and improper maintenance (my G506 has STUDS, not BOLTs holding the axle to the hub) and any number of other things that people do to fix a truck to get back to work. They can be fixed (either with helicoil or weld up then drill/tap to size.

Since its PAINFULLY OBVIOUS that Gopan/Dover doesn't own any TMs, here is a quite common TM showing the magical friction terne plated gasket:



Its from an UBER RARE manual I bought off the Internet for $15

Note how the bolt holes in the gasket are LARGER than the bolt holes in the axle flange.... because sloppy tolerances promote better friction hahahahahahahahaha

Nuttin but love for my bestest buddy o-pal-of-mine Bendy Me Over

And to put this to rest:



That, like every other bolt used to connect an axle to a hub, IS A SHOULDERED BOLT. Why is there a shoulder? To provide a much larger and stronger bearing surface than a threaded shaft.

Just like the Jeep and CCKW... they also use shouldered bolts (aka hex head cap screws).

And make sure the next time you have the axle off... tighten then bolts to 95-100ft/lbs. THAT will stop movement more than lead coated gaskets

I found the origin of the head post-about-stuff-I-don't-know-much-about.

http://www.cckw.org/forum/viewtopic.php ... 61&start=0

BANJO REAR HUBS, CHEV/CCKW

Postby joel gopan » Tue Jul 05, 2005 12:24 am
Do you have problems with rear hubs and the bolts that hold the axle flange to the Hub? Do they keep coming loose?
There are a couple factors, but the first ingrediant is to make sure the wheel bearings are properly adjusted to mimimize any play in the bearings. Next, always install a new factory metal axle flange gasket, they are made of a soft metal called terneplate, and this is the only gasket to use, as they add friction to the joint between the axle flange and the hub, plus ensure a good seal to prevent any leaks. Using paper gasket material or silicone is a no no, and you are asking for trouble, as they are not the most effective way to prevent slipping.(back when I was looking at MVs for my collection, I would spot blue silicone on oil pans and other joints, and would instantly decide not to purchase the vehicle, as it accurately indicated that a half assed mechanic was involved with maintaining the truck, and still does) Once the axle starts to slip, it caused the flange bolts to work within the threaded holes in the hub and it will be impossible to maintain tight bolts. I have seen a lot of fixes to correct the damaged threads and none really work. I have even seen the axle flanges welded to the hubs in extreme cases. I always supply a new terneplate gasket with the Banjo Axle shafts I sell.
Joel

Youse guys wit the Split Axle Shafts will not have this problem, as Timken was smarter and used tapered wedges on the studs for the rear axle shafts.


Proof of not having a clue for a DOCUMENTED 7 YEARS! HAHAHAHAHAHA

And its TERNE PLATED gasket. NOT "terneplate" and its NOT a gasket. A gasket is the function of the parts... TERNE PLATED gaskets can be made of copper (then plated), steel, aluminum.... they are in no way a friction device.... its a way to seal two parts.

And the most common reason they loosen is that most people will not put new lock washers under the bolts when reassembled, and they they don't torque to spec (95-100ft/lbs).

Friction material. This is EPIC!