Motor.. final anwser

[pfarber]

Crankshaft is in! All the pistons are in and all bearings/cap torques down! WooT!

My camshaft thrust plate finally showed up from Jim Carter Truck parts.. so I can put the timing gear on the cam and install that this weekend.

Pretty much all off the bottom half is done. The head needs some work, but shouldn't take more than a day. Installing the water pump adapter and water pump (have to drill/tap the block) should be fun. Also I am going to modify the bottom timing gear cover bolts so I can take the cover off without dropping the oil pan. More drilling/tapping the block, but should go quick.

With any luck should be able to start it mid week. Not sure what condition the carb is in... or what carb I will use. I have a W-1 and a YF... will see whats in better shape.

[pfarber]

Camshaft, oil pump and pickup are in! Getting the aluminum timing gear on was a little harder than I would have liked.. but nothing a little heat wouldn't cure.

Bolted up the water pump adapter plate to the 'high mount' water pump and bolted it to the block. Will drill/tap the last two bolt holes today, then rotate the motor on the stand 180 and drill tap the bottom of the motor mount plate (whatever its called) so I can use bolts from the outside, and not have to drop the oil pan to take the timing gear cover off. Its a mod that I may never need to use... but might as well get it done since he drill and taps will be out.

Need PAL nuts for the con rods, and hope to re-assemble/clean the rocker arm assembly. Doesn't look bad wear wise, just needs a clean/inspect.

My local NAPA is turning out to be useless. Every time someone on stovebolt.com says they got a part from NAPA, when I go to try and get the part they don't have it in the computer. Yesterday I flat out asked if they could look it up the book... and when he said 'that's for a Chevy 350, right?' I knew I was in trouble. I said no, a 235 (Chevvy didn't make a 350 V-8 in 1958 ) and of course they couldn't find it (camshaft thrust plate and spacer).

[pfarber]

Good, although short, motor day.

Tapped the intake valve guides to pull out (they are at an odd angle and I don't have a fixture for my press). The exhaust valve guides are pretty much vertical.... so they came out OK.

Started to clean/inspect the rocker arm shaft... looks good so far. But the carbon/sludge could be hiding something. New rocker parts are not horribly expensive.. but I hope to keep what I have.

[pfarber]

Since the valve guide saga has come to a close things are going smoothly.

I did tap the front main bearing cap so the timing chain cover can be taken off without removing the oil pan. That was pretty easy. I'm not looking for a way to mark the harmonic balancer so I don't have to look through the bell housing for timing marks. It seems the V-8s all have this as a fairly common add on, but finding one for the 235 is more difficult than it should be

I'm on the fence if I want to tap the crank nose and add a bolt to keep the balancer on.... I want the ability to hand crank the motor... so its one of the other. Fitted the pushrods and started to reassemble the valve train on the head.... with any luck next week I'll test run it and break it in. Happy days!!

[pfarber]

Rocker arms and rocker shaft was put on last night. HAPPY DAYS! Cleaned out the oil pan and I just need a dizzy and carb for start up! Autozone has dizzy for $60 and I have a W-1, just need to rebuild it.

Since I want this to be a fake 40's motor I need the old style valve cover.. I think I have one, just gotta find it. I have the large valve cover air breather.. not sure if I want to use it.. it looks like it would fall off quickly.

[pfarber]

Ordered a rebuilt dizzy from Advance Auto.. $56 with a $10 core... the whole dizzy/rotor/cap/sparkplugs/shipping came to just under $97 That's with 15% off and $25 credit for next purchase.

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http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp ... nt=general

Vendors wanted $130 for a rebuilt dizzy. Silly vendors.

I'm going to start WITHOUT a dizzy vacuum advance to keep things simple.. but will be adding one. Here the vendors beat Advance Auto by like $20 for the vacuum advance... plus the vendors have the vacuum line. Should be about $60 to add... but the gas it saves me will more than make up for it.

[pfarber]

Got the oil pan on last night... took forever to clean it up. Waiting on dizzy and will be rebuilding carb. Not sure what to do about a fuel pump... I can find AC type AF pumps all day long, but none have the priming arm. Orielly has:


Precision Fuel Pumps - Electric Fuel Pump
Part # E16232

6V for under $70... but no specs as far as line pressure.

Vendors want $100+ for a pump with primer

[pfarber]

Dizzy showed up as well as the cap. Advance Auto sent two boxes, with the EXACT SAME ADDRESS. UPS delivered one, the second is one county over... UPS tracking said I provided the wrong zip code??? Yeah... its my fault

The dizzy is a generic part. No data tag or grease cup. Not a huge deal but unless you add one how long is the brass bushing going to last?? I have one off the old core... no big deal.

Going to mount the radiator and oil/water temp gauges on the engine stand and see about firing it up tomorrow. The neighborhood is gonna love hearing my I6 run at 2000RPMs with no muffler... I may try and rig something up... maybe bwaa haa haa

[pfarber]

Whatever you do don't lose the manifold clamps!

New set is $40+ ship or if you can scrounge them off ebay.

Damn things are hard to come by used.

[pfarber]

Lots of little things done. Here is the motor all painted up:

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Here's the 'high mount' water pump and adapter plate:

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I had to lower it back onto the wooden dolly to mount the flywheel, clutch and bell housing (not in that order). Its good to have a garage big enough to have a gantry crane:

rsP10-17-13_15-49.jpg (63.66 KiB) Viewed 12076 times

I also painted a ton of stuff.. balancer, dizzy, lots of door parts. The rear motor mount bolts are going to be a PITA to find (9/16-16 x 1 3/4th) the two local hardware stores didn't have them... might have to Grainger them or try the local nuts and bolts place... but they have a $5 min.

[pfarber]

Rebuilt dist really pissed me off. The notch to index the rotor was not parallel and had to file it true to get the cap to fit. Cardon rebuilt parts are not going to be on my 'buy again' list. I do have the original dist.. .but without a rebuild kit I didn't want to use it. It seems OK (no play on shaft) but for $60 it was cheaper to get a new one that rebuild... but the rebuilt has its own small issues

[pfarber]

The motor gods have smiled upon me!

Sitting in the frame:

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Still need to drill bolt holes for the front mount:

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My other truck still has the original shield... and its very rounded, the square shield they are repoping is a very shitty (aka CHEAP) substitute.

Rear motor mounts:

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Once I get the front mount drilled I'll finish the brake and fuel lines. I also have the splash shields (a full set! Whoo hoo!) to install. I'm only about 3 months behind where I wanted to be... I still have to break in the motor... but I want it on wheels before I try that (so I can roll it outside and start it).

[pfarber]

Update on the motor:

Fan installed, dist in and timing set, plug wires installed, starter on, carb linkage checked. Kinda looks like a motor now. Need a genny...

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[retro-roco]

What's up with that angled exhaust manifold? It must have been mounted on your late model engine... Tried to "quote" your post and the original pic, but failed. Perhaps because it was an attachment?

[pfarber]

The exhaust is from a 58 235. The exhaust manifold 'bent' in the 50's. I have a numbers correct exhaust manifold for a G506 235 and its 'straight'. But both post war 235s (I have a 52 and this is a 58) are 'bent'.

The intake ports on the later 235 (the magical 848 heads) are larger and the early 235 manifold from the 40's will not fit. I tried it.. its doesn't work. Also the manifold studs/bolts are slightly different as are the clamps.